As energy costs continue to climb and we more faithfully commit to demand less energy, the use of alternative insulation products continue to grow.

For years, fiberglass was the most widely used form of insulation. Fiberglass insulation is excellent at slowing the transfer of convective heat. Its performance is measured in an r-value number. Generally the thicker the insulation is, the greater the r-value. Fiberglass insulation is relatively inexpensive, installs quickly, and is readily available.

Although fiberglass is ideal in many applications, it does have drawbacks. It is prone to insect and rodent infiltration. Fiberglass also cannot handle excessive moisture. The r-value of fiberglass insulation drops sharply when any level of moisture is added to the material. This eliminates its use in crawlspace applications and many areas around concrete slabs. This also limits its ability in attic applications. In the limitations of fiberglass is where radiant barriers and reflective foil insulation products excel. Radiant barriers and reflective foil insulation are impervious to moisture, and insect and rodent infiltration. They are designed to be used in the following applications: House-wraps: Radiant barriers replace existing house-wraps. Standard house-wraps are a strong weave of perforated vapor barrier. Radiant barrier house-wraps offer this same characteristic but also with a reflective layer allowing it to also block the transfer of radiant heat.

Attics: Radiant Barriers also excel in attic applications. In attics, moisture levels constantly change and most of a home’s heat is either lost or gained here. Fiberglass insulation is not enough to stop the transfer of radiant heat. The use of a radiant barrier that reflects radiant heat is now imperative in attics. Under-Slabs and Basements: Basements are infinite heat sinks due to their contact with the earth. Their high moisture level severely limits the use of fiberglass insulation. Reflective foil insulation is not affected by moisture and its radiant heat blocking properties are also ideal in these applications. Crawlspaces and Duct-Wraps: In these areas reflective foil insulation is the only product to use. Fiberglass insulation is not appropriate. Its inability to handle moisture and insect and rodent infestation make its use impractical.

To prevent any confusion, radiant barrier and reflective foil insulation products are designed to stop the transfer of radiant heat. Fiberglass insulation is designed to stop the transfer of convective heat. It is unfair to judge the two types of insulation against each other. They are designed to stop two different types of heat transfer. Stopping both convective and radiant heat transfer has to be done in order to have an efficient insulation system. To do this, radiant barrier reflective foil insulation technology and fiberglass insulation, or another product designed to stop convective heat gain should be used together whenever possible. Author: Nick Semon

Nick Semon is the owner of Insulationstop.com, a leading online supplier of radiant barrier and reflective foil insulation products. He uses his 15 year experience in the building materials industry to provide information to consumers about better insulation practices. For more information on saving energy visit InsulateOurEarth.com. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Nick_Semon

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ACTIS Insulation Ltd

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If you are told that your attic along with the roof are two of the weakest places in your thermal insulation system it is possible that many may not believe. According to statistics poor (or absent) attic insulation will account for up to 15 % of the total energy loss in your house. Insulating an attic which is generally unheated is vital in the home energy saving process.

What is really the attic in your building?

Attic is defined as the space enclosed by the building wall and is located directly under the roof. As this is an area generally not occupied continuously by anybody (except in special designs and home modifications) it is unheated. Some components of utilities such as water heaters, hot water storages, air conditioning and heating air ducts and also goods storages may be located here depending on the volume of space available. Generally the roof and the floor are insulated though more often than not inadequately.

Areas of heat loss in an attic

Some major points of heat loss have been identified by researchers. For example;

• Roof
• Attic floor
• Air vents
• Attic access
• Poorly erected hot/cold air distribution ducts
  and,
• Poor insulation in hot water tanks and plumbing

The silver lining in the whole issue is that of all insulations of an old or new building attic insulation is the easiest to tackle. And in most cases can be carried out by semiskilled amateurs as a DIY project perhaps during a weekend!

Types of attic insulation

Commonly used attic insulations are as follows:

• Cellulose Insulation – loose fill
• Cellulose Insulation – Stabilized Insulation
• Fibreglass and mineral wool Insulation- loose fill
• Fibreglass and mineral wool insulation- batts
• Expanded Polystyrene or Phenolic foam insulation- rigid boards
• Cellular Foam Insulation – sheets of Butyle and Nitrile rubber foam etc.

Tips for DIY enthusiasts

• The use of cellulose insulation is currently gaining grounds over fiberglass and mineral wool insulation. The reasons being none other than economy! The thermal resistance value “R” per unit material cost for cellulose fill is the lowest for any attic insulation.

Further the modernized material does not require a vapor barrier (subject to local building codes permitting it)

• The cellulose loose fill can be filled in between timber joists. This may raise dust posing a health hazard. Adequate precautions are advised. These fibres may settle about 20 % over the time. An overfill of at least this amount is therefore recommended. On the other hand stabilized cellulose material does not show this weakness and is therefore better suited for the job in spite of the higher price.
• On the other hand the EPS, PF and cellular foam slabs can be easily cut to exact size between joist spacing and also can be fitted over them completely eliminating any thermal bridges unlike fiberglass, cellulose material etc.
• Handling of Fibreglass or mineral wool insulation should be done with care. Protective clothing and masks need to be worn.
• Check all hot water plumbing insulation and renew if necessary. Continuous insulation through out is essential. Check near the storage tanks for weak insulation and rectify as needed.
• Hot/cold air ducts are easily neglected items in an unconditioned attic. Poor seals between flanged joints, weak insulation in these places and elsewhere, non continuity in insulation etc. may cause high thermal energy losses.
• Another cause of heat loss from conditioned areas to the attic is the recessed light fittings. Caution should be exercised when insulating the fitting as this will also entrap the heat emitted by the lamp leading to disastrous fires. Seeking manufacturer’s instruction is therefore essential in this matter.

  

• Vent grilles to and unheated attic is essential for proper ventilation of the occupied areas. Special care need to be taken to prevent obstruction of these grilles (generally located at the periphery of the attic floor).

Author: J Mahoney

John Mahoney is a freelance author who writes about various renewable energy topics topics including Attic Insulation . For more info contact http://www.techstore.ie

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=J_Mahoney

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Acoustic Insulation help to reduce and stop the transfer of sound in a building. This could be from one room to another, one floor to another, or from one apartment or hotel room to another.

There are two types of sound. Impact sound is the sound produced by impact and felt, as well as heard, such as a washing machine spinning on a kitchen floor, a door shutting or footsteps on a staircase. Airborne sound is the sound that is heard, such as a conversation, music or the TV.

Flanking Transmission is the passage of sound through floors and walls. These sound paths must be identified and eliminated, before the appropriate acoustic insulation system can be fitted. Flanking Transmission is often a problem in new builds, and especially in refurbishments, where it might not be possible to alter the structure of the building in order to reduce flanking transmission.

There are various ways and means of reducing the effects of impact and airborne sound. Acoustic flooring can be used to separate floors, and provides more sound control. Depending on the room how much the room will be used, and how noisy the room is, there are different sorts of acoustic flooring. A staircase or landing will need different sorts of acoustic flooring to a living room, or a dining room. Resilient bars and panels can be used to improve sound insulation on walls and ceilings. Whether the room is in a flat, an office, or a hotel can also make a difference to the sort of sound control that is needed/.

Sound control and acoustic insulation is an important consideration in any building work. There are government legislations which state the permitted noise levels, and the ways and means of controlling the noise. UK Building Regulations state that noise is a health and safety issue, and that people have the right to be at home without a threat to their health from noise. This includes sleeping and resting.

There are different regulations governing new builds and refurbishments in terms of sound control. If you are refurbishing an old building, or making changes to your own home, office or hotel, then you may have to use different sorts of sound reduction products than if you were building a new home, office or hotel.

Depending on the type of sound control products you are using, you will need to have your building tested. Pre Completion Testing (PCT) applies to many builds and refurbishments, and requires that the build or refurbishment is tested for compliance with the UK Building Regulations.

If you use Robust Details (RD) products, then your project will not be subject to PCT. Robust Details compliant products meet or exceed the standards required by PCT, and so the PCT is unnecessary.

Now you know more about acoustics and noise, and how important it is, isn’t it time you thought about Acoustic Insulation?

Author: M James

Find out more about Acoustic Insulation and Acoustic Flooring, and see wide range of Sound Control products for your build, at Hush.uk.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=M_James

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Sustainable Energy Ireland (SEI) currently operates two home energy conservation programs where the participant house owners may be reimbursed the total cost they incur while carrying out certain home energy improvements. One such improvement is the cavity wall insulation. Cavity walls provide a convenient structural design to support wall insulation material.

Cavity Walls Cavity walls are external building walls which incorporate an air gap which may be within the wall structure itself (for e.g. Hollow block walls) or between two solid walls (or between two partitions having a narrow air gap separating them).The latter technique was widely used in houses constructed between 1932 to 1982.

Almost all houses constructed after 1982 adopted the cavity wall technique with or without the use of insulation. Why do you need insulation in cavity wall? The wall cavity maintains an air gap which is a good insulation. (In fact it is about the best available conveniently and almost all other manufactured insulation material incorporates air bubbles or spaces in order to gain this advantage).When the cavity width between the two walls exceed a certain critical dimension the air within the gap start moving about due to convection (convection currents) which start assisting heat transfer from the warmer to the colder side rather than blocking it. Porous insulation fill will restrict the air movement within the cavity providing optimized insulation quality. How to find out whether your house has cavity walls All houses built during the last 25 years are almost certain to have cavity walls. It is possible these may be insulated too. Houses built during the 50 years prior to that are also likely to have cavity walls but may not have any insulation.

A sure giveaway sign is the brick pattern of the exterior wall. In general wall bricks are laid in 3 patterns.

• Stretcher bond
• Flemish bond

And,

• English bond

Of these only the stretcher bond patterned brick walls will have a wall cavity. A stretcher bond patterned brick wall will have the bricks laid flat on side and in a linear manner i.e. bricks laid end to end. Another tell tale sign is the width of the total wall. Due to the incorporated cavity the width is in excess of the normal 300 mm width you would expect it to have. It is always better to get a skilled person with proper tools to give advice on these matters. Normally they drill holes in the wall and collect data to find out the details of the air gap, insulation material (if any), and the present condition of it. Types of insulation for cavity walls The commonly used materials are;

• Fibreglass or mineral wool with short strands
• Cellulose loose fill or stabilized cellulose
• Phenolic and other Synthetic foam cavity board -(Used in new constructions only).

Cavity wall insulation if it is a retrofit in an existing house will not take more than 3 or 4 hours. Of course it has to be handled by a skilled person with specialized tools. They would drill holes in the existing external wall at regular intervals, insert a special nozzle and blow short strands of insulation material in to the wall cavity. If the house is being constructed anew phenolic foam rigid board or expanded polystyrene foam boards too may be used. Author: J Mahoney

John Mahoney is a freelance author who writes about various RENEWABLE ENERGY topics including Cavity Wall Insulation Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=J_Mahoney

Moi Martiin Le Triiso

Housebuilder’s Update: Multifoils: last throw of the dice

Multifoil Insulation

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If you’re trying to cut heating and cooling bills, attic ceiling insulation is one of the home upgrades that make the biggest difference. Let’s look at blown versus batt insulation, and different materials such as cellulose, fiberglass, mineral wool and vermiculite.

Insulation traps tiny air pockets between insulating solids such as fibers or foam. This slows heat flow through a space by inhibiting conduction (heat transferred through liquids or solids, in this case the insulation material) and convection (heat transferred through liquids or gases, in this case the trapped air pockets).

Insulation doesn’t stop heat flow; it just slows it down, and better insulation slows it down more. And because heat rises, if you don’t have good attic ceiling insulation you’ll lose a lot more heat through your attic than you will through poorly insulated walls.

The effectiveness of insulation is measured in R values, which tell you how well the insulation slows down the natural transfer of heat. If you have several types of insulation touching one another you can add the R values together. For example, if you have ten inches of fiberglass batt insulation between joists, at R-3 per inch (total of R-30) and you blow in another 5 inches of fiberglass at R-2.5 (total of R-12.5), you have R-42.5, except that if you add insulation in a way that compresses it or insulation previously installed below it, you’ll lower the overall R value. For instance, if you put a 10-inch R-30 rated batt between nominally 10 inch joists (which are usually 9.25 inches) and press it down to joist level, you are probably cutting the R-value down to around the R-25 mark.

You can install your own batts between joists; choose batts whose thickness will make them flush with the top of the joists. If the batts protrude above the joists and there are gaps between the joists, the batts aren’t providing much insulation value above that level. You can install a second layer of batts over top of batt insulation in the joists; layer it crosswise to the joists and don’t leave any gaps between the batts. Never lay batt insulation over top of blown insulation.

Blown insulation typically has a lower R-value than batt insulation and needs to be installed with a blower. A professional insulation firm is your best bet, but you can sometimes rent blowers from your local building center or equipment rental outlet. Still, I would recommend hiring a pro; a given R-value of blown-in attic ceiling insulation, say R-48, often costs less to have professionally installed than it would cost you just to buy the batts for that R-value, without counting your time spent installing it!

Higher R values mean higher energy efficiency. The US Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy (EERE) provides a heating map that divides the country into six heating zones. EERE recommends at least R-49 for the three coldest zones (1-3, which makes up about 90% of the country’s land mass) and R-38 for the warmer zones; for electric heat, R-49 is recommended country wide. My recommendation is to go for at least R-49 regardless of where you live, and R-60 or more for colder zones. You might as well save as much on heating and cooling as possible.

Make sure that when new insulation is installed, you don’t cover up any existing vents in your attic roof, side walls, or soffits. You might even want to add soffit or roof vents if there aren’t already enough, as better ventilation prevents heat build-up in your attic in summer, and prevents moisture build-up in winter. Even a well-insulated attic can create heat gain inside an air-conditioned house (remember, the insulation slows heat transfer, it doesn’t stop it). Moisture can reduce fiber insulation R-values temporarily (because high-humidity air spaces between the fibers transfer heat better than low-humidity air spaces) and permanently, if the humidity causes the fibers to become compressed.

If you have a professional install blown-in insulation, you’ll want to check that they filled to at least the agreed-on level. Before the insulation is installed, nail thin strips of wood around the attic against the joists, so that they reach at least 8 inches above the level of attic ceiling insulation you are paying to have blown in. Mark the agreed level of insulation on each stick in red marker, and then mark two lines above and two lines below that line in another color. You can then inspect the completed installation to ensure that on average the insulation level made it at least to the agreed level. These markers will also ensure that the contractor is careful to install what he agreed to install.

There’s no single best material for attic ceiling insulation. Avoid foam insulation because you do not want a vapor barrier between your attic and your living space. The key is to choose a material that gives you the highest overall R value possible.

If your attic currently has vermiculite insulation, you need to be very careful. Vermiculite is a naturally occurring mineral that expands into a lightweight material when heated (kind of like popcorn). Unfortunately, one of the main vermiculite mines in the US until 1990 was found to have a natural asbestos deposit in the same mine, which means vermiculite insulation installed in North America before or during 1990 may be contaminated with asbestos, an extremely toxic fiber. Although this mine was shut down I still don’t recommend vermiculite – asbestos might be found in some other vermiculite mine later, and vermiculite has a lower R-value than most other materials.

If you do have vermiculite installed, leave it alone, or hire someone to test it for asbestos contamination before you replace it or even disturb it. If it does contain asbestos it is safe if undisturbed, but to remove it you’ll need to hire people who specialize in asbestos removal.

Author: Robin Green

Robin Green is the owner of GreenEnergyEfficientHomes.com, a website dedicated to helping people save energy on heating, cooling, lighting, and other energy uses in their homes. For more information see the Attic ceiling insulation article on his website.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Robin_Green

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A roof leak is caused by one thing – moisture. This can sometimes be difficult to detect, but technology has provided roofing professionals with a new method of how to find a flat roof leak using infrared survey. Because of their simplicity, flat roofs are very common. Unfortunately, also because of their design, a flat roof is more susceptible to water build up and damage.

The Concept Of Finding A Flat Roof Leak With Infrared Survey

It is thought that infrared surveys may help to promote a longer life for your roof. Inspections, of this type, allows the infrared camera to scan the entire roof area for moisture. The concept of finding a flat roof leak using infrared survey is quite fascinating. During the afternoon, the sun heats the roof structure with it’s warm rays. As the sun sets in the evening, the roof begins to cool. If there is a leak in the roof, the insulation or roof structure will become wet. A higher thermal mass is found in wet insulation than that of the rest of the structure. The infrared survey will be able to detect this moisture from a clear picture of the damaged area. Because of the technical work involved, a professional should be used to detect a flat roof leak using infrared survey.

Two Options Of Finding A Flat Roof Leak Using Infrared Survey

There are two ways to search for a flat roof leak using infrared survey. One is from a distance and the other is by performing a walk-on roof inspection. Anytime you, or anyone else, is walking on a roof, it is extremely dangerous. This is especially true if it is raining or if the roof is wet from a previous rain. Obviously, if you are searching for a leak or moisture, there is a suspicion that the roof is wet, so use extreme caution if you opt for the walk-on inspection. Let your contractor know that the roof may be slippery. Being professionals, they are already likely to be aware of this fact, but it’s a good idea to remind them to be careful.

Detecting Problems Before It’s Too Late

Each day, roofs are ruined because of improper maintenance or simply because the damaged area cannot be located. In order for a roof to last, it requires regular maintenance by the homeowners, but also by professional roofing contractors. Regular checks should be done to search for leaks, cracks, rotting or other damage. If left untreated, these problems can lead to the entire roof needing replaced. This is not necessary if proper maintenance is done, including the use of infrared survey to find a flat roof leak. Flat roofs are especially vulnerable to water damage because there is no roof slope for the water to flow to. Often, water will pool in one area of a flat roof and begin to weigh down the structure, which will cause leaks and other structural problems. The areas of moisture can quickly be identified using an infrared survey.

Author: Steven Briesemeister

As Northern Virginia Roofing Contractors, Roofer911.com takes great pride in maintaining customer satisfaction for all types of new roof installation and roof repair work for residential and commercial roofing accounts. Need home service articles? Find Local contractors in your area today.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Steven_Briesemeister

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Energy efficient roofing is available in a material that will fit any home. As with traditional roofing materials, your final choice of the right new roof for your home will depend, to a large extent, on where you live, the architectural style of your home, and local preferences.Most discussions of residential roofing options, however, tend to focus on the materials most commonly used on pitched roof styles. If you have a flat roof, your needs are somewhat different. There are highly energy efficient options for a flat roof for you to consider.

Flat roofs are very popular in the San Francisco Bay Area and in the desert Southwest. Certain architectural styles used in the Deep South also incorporate flat roofs or parts of roofs.Low-pitched roofs can often use the same energy efficient materials very effectively.

Flat roofs present several challenges:

• Much more difficult to install
• Very difficult to maintain
• Few long-lasting solutions available
• Persistent drainage problems
• Inadequate insulation

There are energy efficient roofing materials for flat and low-pitched roofs that offer most of the same benefits as other materials for steeply pitched roofs.Some of these materials are commonly used on commercial buildings very effectively.Like other homeowners throughout the USA, you might be thinking about replacing your roof while you can take advantage of Federal tax credits and other available incentives.

New energy-efficient roofing systems promise reduced cooling costs, longer roof life with less maintenance, better wind resistance (up to 110 mph), better seals and less likelihood of leaks and penetration by wind-driven water, and better insulation to prevent heat exchange.

The energy efficient roofing systems recommended for flat and low-pitched roofs are foam sprays and membranes. There are three main types of materials options for the flat roof.

Spray Roofing – Seamless Spray Roofing Membrane or Sprayed Polyurethane Foam (SPF).

Two liquids are mixed at the spray nozzle and release a chemical reaction that causes the foam to expand twenty or thirty times, forming a solid, unbroken roof system that adheres across the entire roof. These spray roofing materials provide outstanding water resistance and thermal insulating properties.They can be as much as 500 times more energy-efficient than the traditional tar and gravel.Because the sprays will adhere to almost anything, it is not necessary to remove the old roofing materials. The foam is then treated with a protective “elastomeric” coating. In other words, the coating protects the foam and stretches with it in heat or cold. It has been shown to reduce energy costs by as much as 58% and in some places can pay for itself in as little as four and one-half years. If cleaned, primed and recoated properly every ten to fifteen years, the spray roofing can last 50 years or move.

Thermoplastic Olefin or Polyolefin (TPO).

This material creates a single-ply roof membrane. It is made of ethylene propylene rubber, providing great durability with good flexibility to respond to building movement. It is ozone and algae resistant and resistant to punctures and tears from impacts. Seams are welded in a way that allows manufacturers to claim that they are almost a single piece. The membrane is attached around the perimeter and at all penetrations and then held in place with ballast.

Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer (EPDM).

This single-ply membrane has been used in the U.S. since the 1960s. It is a very common roofing material for flat roofs because it is less expensive than some of the other options and relatively easy to install. EPDM is a rubber material, which makes it flexible enough to handle building movement. It can be installed in three ways, depending upon the local weather (particularly wind). It can be fully adhered across the entire roof, mechanically fastened to the substrate, or loose-laid and covered with a ballast (often river rock) to hold it in place. The seams are sealed using special splicing tapes.

Three primary material options are available to homeowners with flat or low-pitched roofs.All of these systems offer energy efficient options for homes with a flat roof.Several companies make the materials and the sealants that must be applied regularly.Talk with your roofing contractor about the best option for a flat roof in your region.

Copyright 2009 by ABCD Publishing

Author: Dan Fritschen

Dan Fritschen, the author of this article, is a nationally recognized remodeling expert, and the founder of the homeowner information web sites http://www.remodelormove.com and http://www.remodelestimates.com. He is the author of five books on remodeling.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Dan_Fritschen

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Polyurethane foam roofing has been around for more than 40 years as one of the major choices for materials in insulation and roofing. Once, they were considered only to be an alternative to the age-old built-up roofing but now polyurethane foam roofing already belongs to the forefront of the roofing industry as it has proven its durability, dependability and affordability. Some have already withstood 40 years and appear to be able to continue performing for the decades to come.

Great Advantages of Polyurethane Foam Roofing

Polyurethane foam roofing has several great advantages when compared to other roofing options. The coverage of this type of roofing is seamless, as polyurethane foam comes in liquid form at first, and then sprayed evenly as a single, continuous membrane that protects the entire roof. There are no joints or seams that can widen to cause leaks like in other roofing materials. Polyurethane foam is also flexible, it can be installed in practically any kind of surface; even roofs with protrusions and irregular shapes can be covered by polyurethane foam.

Polyurethane foam roofing is also very lightweight, it usually just weighs around 50 pounds per square feet, compared to 800 pounds for the built-up roofing system and at least 100 pounds for those ballasted single-ply membrane roofs. Polyurethane foam also provides great insulation so it can help keep heat away during hot seasons and heat inside during cold seasons. This type of roofing is also very easy to maintain, there is little waste created throughout its use, and with proper maintenance, can last indefinitely.

Insulating Properties

The insulating properties of polyurethane foam roofing are incomparable. For such a thin material, it can give adequate thermal resistance like no other roofing option. For every 1 inch of polyurethane foam roofing, the R-value is rated at 7.14. This can help save as much as 30% of energy costs for both cooling and heating.

With such savings, the cost of the roofing can be recovered easily within just five years. These insulating properties have proven to be useful in wineries, chemical processing plants, and oil refineries. If polyurethane foam roofing can withstand the demands of these industries, how much more can it provide less demanding settings?

Waterproofing

Another important property of polyurethane foam is its waterproofing capabilities. Polyurethane foam roofing is comprised of very uptight cells that as a whole can act as a barrier for both water and moisture. Not only does it keep water, in liquid form, away, it also minimizes problems with dew point and prevents condensation of water inside structures.

The roofing is very much protected even if the foam’s top coat gets damaged as the underlying layer still keeps the roof waterproof. Water also drains properly so accumulation of water does not occur even when it rains.

How It’s Applied

Polyurethane foam roofing is actually a combination of polyol and isocyanate. The two substances are run through a machine known as the proportioner that heats up the two chemicals and sprays them in a mixture using a spray gun as a single substrate. Because the foam is initially sprayed in liquid form, it can cover the surface of a structure as a single, continuous layer that has no seams or joints, providing stability and even coverage.

When installing the polyurethane foam roof, it is important for the surface to be dry and free of any contaminant such as solvents and oil. To protect the polyurethane foam roof from the rays of the sun, another layer, called the elastomeric coat is sprayed on top, making the roof even more protective as it is.

With such great advantages and ease of installation, there is no wonder why polyurethane foam has become one of the top choices among roofing options today. With such great properties there is no question that polyurethane foam roofing is definitely worth getting for any structure that needs adequate protection.

Author: Ernest Jarquio

Ernest Jarquio is a dedicated family man hopelessly addicted to do-it-yourself projects. For more information, visit Flooring2Roof.com, where he discusses various subjects such as polyurethane foam roofing, EPDM roofing and other roofing options.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ernest_Jarquio

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Building insulation is done for a variety of reasons. Primarily we associate it with thermal insulation but the fact is there are other reasons such as for example blocking sound and vibration transmission, fire protection and impact damages etc. why different types of insulations are used. Out of all these, weaknesses in thermal insulation hit everyone harder because it affects their home economy consistently.

What Insulation is best for my home?

All buildings are not the same .Neither are they located in a particular single geographical region. Their needs too may differ, for example whether it’s heating or cooling that you require or whether it’s both. (In which case which requirement prevails longer).The following information gives a better idea to plan this out.

• Climate prevailing at the site
• Space temperature you would be happy with.(low temperature setting will cause lesser loss of heat)
• Suitability, acceptability (by local regulations etc) and the convenience to insulate.
• Life span and durability (some are susceptible to moisture, material may settle soon and loose profile, may deteriorate faster etc.)
• Mode of heat transfer (whether conduction , convection or radiation is prevailing more)
• Building architectural design, orientation, use of glass in the building envelope etc. (for example whether outsulation is possible, air tightness, vapour permeability, forced or passive ventilation, possibility to use low-e insulated glass etc).
• Toxicity of the material (short term or long term)
• Sustainability, Carbon foot print, environmental friendliness and ability to recycle.

Insulation options

The types of building insulation may be broadly divided as;

• Structural
• and, Non-structural

Non Structural building Insulations

The following is a cross section of the types of insulation material available for retrofitters and new builders.

• Blankets and rigid boards with or without kraft paper/aluminium foil vapor barriers- (e.g. Fibreglass wool, rock wool, slag wool etc)
• Batts of Insulation -(e.g. Fibreglass, mineral wools etc)
• Loose Fill insulation – (e.g. Fibreglass wool, slag wool, rock wool, cellulosic material such as recycled paper, cotton wool, vermiculite etc.)
• Sprayed foams – (e.g, Polyurethane foams, expanded polystyrene foam etc.)
• Reflective Insulation and radiant barriers- (e.g. stand alone kraft paper backed aluminium foil or plain aluminium foil etc.)

Structural Building insulations

• Rigid Panels – (e.g. composite Outsulation of EPS with finishes, dry walls etc.)
• Structured Panels (e.g. compressed straw panels etc.)
• Straw bales (e.g. tightly bundled straw finished with masonry plaster)

When you are thinking of building insulation (whether a new construction or a retrofit job) paying careful attention may not be a wasteful exercise. After all proper building insulation may be the difference of up to 30% of your home heating bill. Avoiding thermal bridges (continuous direct paths for heat transfer from indoor to out door) in the building envelope is equally important. As the currently effective HES scheme of SEI reimburses significant amounts against retrofit thermal insulation expenditure it is best to look in to this as well.

Author: J Mahoney

John Mahoney is a freelance author who writes about various renewable energy topics topics including Building Insulation. For more info contact http://www.techstore.ie

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=J_Mahoney

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This is always going to be a tricky one to answer, mainly because there are so many variables involved and each property is different. Things that will affect the running costs in a house are un-insulated floors, no double glazing, no cavity wall insulation, and humans!

Yes humans – what feels warm to you might not be warm for me and on it goes, we all have different comfort levels and this too will have an effect on the running cost.

Underfloor heating has been proven to reduce overall heating costs by up to 40%; this is achieved by having a more comfortable temperature at a lower setting thus not using as much electricity to heat the home. If you think of the whole floor gently radiating heat from the feet upwards past the body you will naturally feel warmer and since the heat cools down as it rise’s past you, you wont feel stuffy around your head, unlike radiators.

Radiators use convection heat, which means simply that the heat rises straight up to the ceiling, cools down and comes back down creating drafts!

Most modern underfloor heating systems on the market today incorporate high tech digital thermostats to regulate the temperature and maximise energy efficiency, one of the market leading thermostats is the AUBE TH-132-F, this stat incorporates a PIR microprocessor that analysis the systems past performance in order to optimise future commands, at the beginning of each cycle it sends out a signal that defines how long it will heat during the next cycle, in order to save energy.

To calculate running costs you need to firstly find out how many watts per m you have, then times the watts by the amount of m you do have, this will then tell you how many Kwatts you have in order to work out the consumption and cost. We will base this example on a 150w per m system at 10m floor space -

10m x 150w = 1500w /1000 to give you the Kw = 1.5Kw x 0.08p (or what ever you pay for a Kilo watt of electric) = 12p per hour on full power, then once the system has warmed up to temperature it will run on about 40% of power to keep it at that set temperature 12p x 40% = 4.8p per hour thereafter.

The above is a crude way of working it out but will give you a general idea, it’s not an exact calculation but does go along in helping you calculate how much it could cost, the above is also based on having a modern home with well insulated floors and windows.

Author: Russel Zera

Underfloor Heating is one of the most efficient forms of domestic and commercial heating today. Most underfloor heating systems are aimed at the DIY market but if you don’t fancy doing it your self then why not contact us for a free no obligation quotation.

http://www.warmfloorsonline.com

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